Warm potato salad
Potato salad might be the perfect transitional food: It’s reminiscent of the BBQs and long summer days that we’re leaving behind, but as we head towards fall, what’s more comforting than a bowl of starchy goodness?
Phew. I am in the thick of this motherhood in a pandemic thing, y’all. (While also trying to be okay with what we have [in-person school half of the time; outdoor, distanced playdates], and what we don’t [travel, grandparents without preplanning, sports, activities]. I was about to actually start this blog post asking, “from where is our worth derived?” And then I said to myself: GET A GRIP BECCA, THIS IS JUST A FUCKING FOOD BLOG.
One thing I’m really missing, and I think we can all relate to this somewhat, is that sense of having discreet portions of the day. I blame the pandemic, the world being both literally and figuratively on fire, and being home all the time, but having a 5.5 month old baby who is, thus far, schedule resistant, also doesn’t help.
Whatever the cause, I miss those few downbeat moments every day where you could switch from one mode to the next. Now I feel like I’m never able to focus on one thing completely. I can’t just test a recipe or take some photos. Instead, I’m doing that while comforting a crying baby and finding a very specific episode of Paw Patrol on the DVR and getting some water and searching for a missing Lego and nursing and and and.
On the flip side, I find myself not tuning in to my kids entirely either, which makes me really upset with myself and this fucking situation we’re in. I think that fear, anger, resentment, and frustration makes it hard for me to find the bandwidth for a really involved pretend game or art project or science experiment. But that sucks for my kids because they aren’t responsible for the pandemic. But I’m also human and I can’t be the perfect mom all day, every day. * PRIMAL SCREEEEAAAAAMMMMM *
But anyway, time marches on and suddenly summer has turned into fall. I don’t know what we did with the warm months. Did they even happen? Who knows.
We did celebrate summer produce thanks to our prolific cucumber, zucchini, and basil plants AND our favorite farm stand. Now that fall is bearing down on us, there’s nothing like a meal to mark the changing of the seasons and this potato salad is the culinary equivalent of a light jacket: A nod to both warm and cold, casual and cozy.
While potato salad might seem relegated to side-dishery, I topped this with a runny egg for an unexpectedly fab breakfast. Try it!
Warm potato salad
Time: About 15-20 minutes, mostly active
Yield: about 3-3.5 cups of salad
1½ lbs small potatoes (new, fingerling, red, etc; cut any larger ones so that most pieces are about the same size)
¼ cup mayonnaise or Greek yogurt
3 Tbsp dijon mustard
¼ cup chopped red onion (about 1 thick slice from a medium or small onion)
2 Tbsp finely chopped chives
1/4-1/2 tsp kosher salt
¼ tsp smoked paprika
Dash of red wine vinegar or 1 tsp of chopped capers
Microwave the washed potatoes in a glass bowl covered with plastic wrap on high for 10 minutes. Or cover the potatoes with cold water until they’re just submerged. Heat over a high flame until boiling. Boil, lowering the flame slightly to avoid the water boiling over, until fork tender, about 12-14 minutes.
While the potatoes are cooking, combine the rest of the ingredients in a large bowl and mix well.
Once the potatoes are fork tender, add them to the mixture and stir to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
Pasta con ceci (and white beans)
A one-pot, healthy, vegan optional pasta dinner full of beans and veggies that comes together in less than 30 minutes? Oh, and it’s made with things you likely have in your pantry right now (or could easily get on the cheap)? Yes and yes.
This dish started with Victoria Granoff’s wonderful Pasta con ceci from Food52. It’s easy, fast, inexpensive, and shockingly complex considering the petite ingredient list and short cooking time.
However, that quick cook left the chickpeas a little too raw, in my opinion. And while I love a healthy fat, the original recipe calls for lots of olive oil and I wanted to lighten it up a bit. I suspect that the larger amount of oil masks the chickpea taste a bit, but I like the idea of replacing fat with fiber and not the other way around.
I tried to swap in white beans for the chickpeas entirely, but they cooked down too much. Half and half white beans and chickpeas, though, proved the winning combination: Some bite from the chickpeas and some creaminess from the white beans marries perfectly.
Use whole wheat pasta and throw in some julienned kale at the end and you have a rounded, healthy dish full of fiber and protein.
Even M, who’s been in an extended picky phase, gobbled this up and we didn’t even need to put other “safe’ foods on the table.
All that to say, MAKE THIS FOR DINNER TONIGHT!
Pasta con Ceci (and white beans)
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 large cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
1/3 cup tomato paste
1½ teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste
1 can of white beans, drained and rinsed
1 can chick peas, drained and rinsed
1½ cup uncooked orecchiete pasta (or another small shape)
3½ cups stock or water
1 parmesan rind (optional)
½ bushel Tuscan (also called Lacinto or Dinosaur) kale, julienned (about 1½-2 cups)
For serving: red pepper flakes, more parmesan,
Heat the oil in a large pot over a medium-low flame, until hot, but not crackling.
Add the smashed garlic (it should sizzle in the pan right away) and cook until it’s deeply tanned, but not dark brown. Adjust the temperature as needed to avoid burning.
Add the tomato paste. It should also sizzle when it hits the pan. If not, increase the temperature. Cook, stirring and hearing the sizzle, for 30 seconds to a minute.
Add the white beans, pasta, water or stock, and salt. Bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat to low and add the cheese rind, if using. Let simmer uncovered (you should have a decent simmer going and see bubbles popping throughout the cooking. If not, increase the temperature) for 15-20 minutes or until the sauce has thickened to your liking and the pasta is cooked.
Turn off the heat and toss in your kale. Stir a few times to let the residual heat wilt the greens.
Serve.
Yield: 4 servings
Fried green tomatoes
If you hate wasting those end of season tomatoes (OR, you get impatient waiting for them to ripen), fry them up green and throw them into a sandwich, over some eggs, or alongside of any protein.
The keys to good fried green tomatoes, to me, are soaking overnight in buttermilk, and cooking with HOT oil. I've gotten equally delicious and crunchy results from using a little bit of oil and a lot of oil, but the heat seemed like the common denominator. And lots of salt.
I’ve also experimented a lot with corn flour and different grinds of cornmeal. I initially liked corn flour the best, but it's very easy for the flour to cake onto the tomato slice, which then doesn't cook evenly. Ultimately, my favorite was straight-up, finely ground cornmeal.
Fried green tomatoes
Time: Overnight + 25-30 minutes active cooking
Yield: about 9-16 tomato slices, depending on how big your tomatoes are
3-4 large green tomatoes, sliced into ¼-inch thick slices, discarding the rounded bits*
1-2 cups milk (any fat content is fine)
1-2 Tbsp vinegar (white or apple cider)
2 tsp salt, divided
1 cup finely ground cornmeal
1/2 tsp paprika
1/2 tsp garlic powder
Ground pepper, to taste
1/4 cup avocado or canola oil
Course sea salt
Thinly slice off the round side bits of the tomato. Slice the rest into 1/4-inch slices. Place the tomatoes in a container with a lid and cover them with milk and vinegar. Add 1 tsp salt, cover, and shake. Refrigerate for at least a few hours and up to 2 days.
Combine the corn meal, remaining 1 tsp salt, paprika, garlic powder, and pepper in a large container. Set aside.
Heat avocado oil until very hot.
Shake off excess buttermilk from 1-2 tomato slices at a time and place them in the cornmeal mixture. Cover both sides well, but shake off any excess cornmeal that seems like it’s caking.
When the oil is hot (you’ll know it’s hot enough when you add a few flecks of corn meal and it immediately starts bubbling), add as many tomatoes as will fit in your pan without touching, and fry them until golden brown. Flip over and cook the other side. When second side reaches golden brown, remove to a paper towel and sprinkle with coarse sea salt.
