Malted chocolate pavlova

Pavlova failures abounded this week. Ugh. Half of these photos are from when I gave up trying to make a meringue that didn't fall and just accepted that I'd wasted, like, 20 eggs making these stupid desserts.

But I'll back up: Pavlova! I love meringues and a pavlova is akin to a large meringue that has a softer, more marshmallow-y center. It's a decadent finish to a holiday dinner, but strangely light, which seems appropriate after ham or whatever other heavy things make up your Easter meal. It's also going to be almost 80 degrees here in NYC on Easter Sunday, so a light dessert might be nice. Good planning on my part.

Pavlovas should be easy: They require very few ingredients and very little active cooking time. But, I've learned the hard way (read: after 4 fallen pavlovas), that the technique can be tricky. I've put some lengthy notes below to explain what I did to achieve pavlova success on my 5th try. Victory in our time.

I've done A LOT of research on pavlova techniques in the past 14 days. Unfortunately, some of the advice is contradictory (why does that always happen?). In 20 years, when I've made 400 pavlovas, I'll update this post with a foolproof method for cooking them. Until then, here's what worked:

1) Cold egg whites are fine. Using cold eggs are not the secret because I also used cold egg whites in one of my fallen meringues. But I used them in my successful one, so don't worry about bringing them to room temperature before you get started.

2) Whip egg whites at a slower speed for a longer amount of time. I whipped the egg whites on a 4 with my stand mixer and had the best results when aerating the eggs a little more slowly. Using a lower speed also makes it easier to ensure that you whip enough, but not too much.

3) Whip the eggs almost to stiff peaks before adding the sugar. I read this advice on a random Australian listserv (I did a DEEP dive into pavlova-land) and it really helped. All of the other recipes I read told me to add the sugar when the eggs were at soft peaks, but that inevitably led to fallen pavlova. I tried to get some good photos of the soft peak stage, but was scared to stop the mixer, lest my 5th attempt fall too. Basically, you'll know you're at soft peaks when the bubbles that started earlier as froth become really really tiny, the eggs' volume increases, and you can see the tracks from the whisk going through the mixture. Once you get here, keep mixing for a few more minutes before adding the sugar. 

4) Don't overbeat the eggs. Once you've added the sugar, stop whipping as soon as the egg whites start looking glossy and shiny and check to see if you've achieved stiff peaks.

5) Sift the malt powder, chocolate, and cornstarch over the whipped meringue. I worked pretty hard to ensure that nothing deflated those eggs and the only time it worked was when I actually sifted the dry add-ins at the end. I also folded the ingredients together excruciatingly gently and JUST until things are mixed together enough. I left the batter a little streaky because I really didn't want them to deflate.

But fear not. If you're still reading, then you're already committed to making this and good on you. Regardless of what happens with the texture of your pavlova, it'll taste great. This recipe uses a lot less sugar than most because I find most pavlovas awfully sweet. I also love the flavor of malt. While the pavlova itself isn't overwhelmingly malt-y, it has a mild sweetness and chocolate-y flavor that melds perfectly with some lightly sweetened cream and the malted and chocolate candies on top. If I was doing this again, I would also dust the top with malt powder. But if I make another pavlova, my husband might divorce me.

Malted pavlova

Adapted from Nigella and Martha

6 egg whites
large pinch of salt
1 cup sugar
1 tsp vinegar
1 Tbsp cornstarch
3 Tbsp malt powder
1 Tbsp cocoa powder

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

Separate the egg whites and yolks and set the yolks aside. (Be careful! Seriously, no yolks allowed in pavlova.) In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites on medium-low speed ("4" on my stand mixer) until they start to get frothy. Add the salt and continue whipping. Look for soft peaks: (in case you didn't read this above) The bubbles that started forming when the eggs got frothy become really tiny, the eggs’ volume increases, and you can see clear tracks where the whisk cuts through the mixture. Continue whisking past this stage (still on speed 4) for about 3-4 more minutes.

Add the sugar in 2-3 Tbsp increments while continuing to whip. After each sugar addition, let your mixer go for about 1 minute to incorporate the sugar. Once your sugar is mixed in, continue whisking until the eggs look glossy and shiny. Stop the mixer and check that you’re at “stiff peaks.” To check: turn the whisk right side up and see if the egg whites stay in a peak or lop over—they should stay in a peak. Add the vinegar and then sift the cornstarch, malt powder, and cocoa over the eggs. Very gently, fold the ingredients together until JUST mixed.

Mound this mixture onto your parchment and smooth down the top a bit, leaving a slight divot in the center. Put in the oven and immediately reduce heat to 300. Cook for 60-70 minutes and then turn off the heat and let cool completely in the oven with the door closed.

The pavlova can be kept, well covered, for 2-3 days before being decorated with the cream and candy.

Whipped cream
2 cups heavy whipping cream
4 Tbsp sugar
½ Tbsp vanilla extract

Combination of Cadbury chocolate mini eggs and Whoppers malted mini eggs

To assemble: Remove the parchment paper and place the pavlova on your serving dish. Some people like to invert the pavlova and put cream on the underside. I have no preference about this step. Mound the whipped cream on whatever side you like and top with the candy. Serve immediately.

Yield: 8-10 servings

Cardamom and pistachio meltaways

Cardamom and pistachio meltaways | Me & The Moose. This unusual spin on the classic Christmas cookie is both unique and familiar at the same time. #meandthemoose #cardamomandpistachiomeltaways #christmasbaking #christmascookies #cookierecipes #meltaways #Russianteacakes #Mexicanweddingcookies

A few ingredients and a quick whizz in the food processor leads to quick, easy, and delicious cookies for your holiday cookie tray.

Take me to the cookies!

Cardamom and pistachio meltaways | Me & The Moose. This unusual spin on the classic Christmas cookie is both unique and familiar at the same time. #meandthemoose #cardamomandpistachiomeltaways #christmasbaking #christmascookies #cookierecipes #meltaways #Russianteacakes #Mexicanweddingcookies

These cookies are GOOD, y'all. Sorry, I've been watching a marathon of Fixer Upper while writing, which is really the only logical reason for this Yankee to use the word "y'all." Anyway, I've called these cookies "meltaways," but they're the treat of 1000 names: Snowballs, Butterballs, Russian tea cakes, Mexican wedding cookies, meltaways, you name it. At their core, these are egg-free, simple cookies that are a little crumbly, very buttery, and subtly sweet. Adding in cardamom and pistachio just makes them a tiny bit more interesting.

Cardamom and pistachio meltaways | Me & The Moose. This unusual spin on the classic Christmas cookie is both unique and familiar at the same time. #meandthemoose #cardamomandpistachiomeltaways #christmasbaking #christmascookies #cookierecipes #meltaways #Russianteacakes #Mexicanweddingcookies

I tested this recipe more than was technically necessary (not sorry). But it felt like there were many possible variations that would radically change the final product, so here are a few lessons:

1) Buy already roasted and shelled pistachios, if you can. Trader Joe's calls them "nutmeats" which is just awful. But your fingertips will thank you.
2) Use unsalted nuts even though you're adding salt to the batter.
3) The amount of cardamom in the recipe is for a new or newish bottle. If you can smell the cardamom when you open the bottle, use less. If you have to really stick your nose close to the spice to smell it, increase the amount. I used the dregs of a VERY old bottle of cardamom in my initial recipe and I had to more than double the amount used to get the taste I wanted. Then I tried with a brand new bottle and 1/2 tsp was more than enough. So, get friendly with your spices to judge for yourself.

Cardamom and pistachio meltaways | Me & The Moose. This unusual spin on the classic Christmas cookie is both unique and familiar at the same time. #meandthemoose #cardamomandpistachiomeltaways #christmasbaking #christmascookies #cookierecipes #meltaways #Russianteacakes #Mexicanweddingcookies

Cardamom and pistachio meltaways

Time: about 30 minutes, mostly active
Yield: 14 cookies

Adapted from Bon Appetit

1 cup roasted, shelled pistachios
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
2 Tbsp powdered sugar, plus 1/2 cup more for rolling   
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
¾ cup all-purpose flour
½-1 tsp cardamom
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ tsp lemon zest

Preheat the oven to 350. If they aren’t already roasted, place the pistachios on a sheet pan and roast them until the nuts become fragrant, about 4 minutes.

In the bowl of the food processor, whizz the butter and 2 Tbsp of sugar until the butter has broken down, formed a ball, and then spread itself out again, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the vanilla, flour, cardamom, salt, lemon zest, and pistachios. Whizz again until the nuts are broken down and the ingredients are combined.

Scoop a scant 1 Tbsp of dough at a time, roll into a ball, and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with all of the batter. Bake for 7 minutes, rotate the pan, and bake for 4-7 more minutes, until the cookies start browning on the bottom and form tiny cracks on top (but too much cracking means dry cookies, so be careful not to overbake).

Let cool completely. Place about 1/2 cup of powdered sugar in a bowl and roll the cooled cookies in the sugar, one at a time. Leave out for a few hours before storing: This helped keep the sugar from dissolving into the cookies, I found.

Chocolate banana reindeer pops

The treats train has not slowed down since Halloween and we still have a month to go until we all resolve to stop eating like there's a food shortage coming. But thankfully, we can feel full of holiday spirit, and not junk with these chocolate-covered banana reindeer. I tried this with a few different types of fruit, and bananas worked better than apples, strawberries, or grapes.

These treats are also easy to make allergen friendly. Melted carob worked just as well as regular milk, dark, and white chocolates. I used spelt pretzels because this ancient grain is easier to digest than regular wheat and the Happy Herbert brand's ingredient list is blissfully straightforward. However, there are many types of gluten-free pretzels out there that would make a good substitution. The coconut oil that thins out the chocolate also makes these frozen pops a little tropical, which reminds me that there are warmer days ahead. Eventually.

Chocolate banana reindeer pops

2 large bananas      
12-14 thin wooden popsicle sticks
Mini pretzels
Chocolate chips (milk, dark, white, carob, or dairy-free chips https://enjoylifefoods.com/our-food/baking-chocolate/chocolate-for-baking-mini-chips/) 

Cut each banana into thick slices (you should get about 6-7 slices from each large banana). Snap 12-14 pretzels in half and remove the middle nubbin.

Stick the ends of each pretzel into the sides of the banana pieces to make antlers. Stick a wooden popsicle stick into the bottom of the banana slice. Place all bananas with antlers and sticks onto a parchment-lined baking sheet and freeze for at least one hour, but up to one day.

Once the bananas are frozen, combine ½ bag of your preferred chocolate with 2 Tbsp unmelted coconut oil in a large bowl and melt in the microwave. Cook for 30 seconds on high and then in 10 second bursts until liquid, stirring between each burst. Let cool for 10 minutes. Remove the bananas from the freezer one by one and dip in the melted chocolate. Tap off the excess and, using a small plate, transfer back to the baking sheet in the freezer and repeat with the other frozen bananas.

Let the covered bananas freeze for at least one hour, but up to five days before serving.

Yield: 12-14 banana reindeer

Thanksgiving grilled cheese

I love Thanksgiving leftovers almost as much as I love Thanksgiving dinner. I thought about making pocket pies or a Shepard's Pie out of the leftovers, both of which would have been great for a toddler, but those required more work than my still full, tryptophan-muddied brain could handle. Oh, and M wakes up at 5 am when we're away from home. Without fail.

So, this year, we made Thanksgiving grilled cheeses and they were AMAZING. I really wanted everything to stick together because my pet peeve with next-day sandwiches is how crumbly they can be. And for M that would mean a full sandwich on the kitchen floor. These employ turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, and, most importantly, cold gravy to keep everything from drying out (thank you, Ross Geller).

Thanksgiving grilled cheese

For each sandwich:
1 oz turkey, shredded
1/4 cup stuffing
1/4 cup mashed potatoes
2 Tbsp cold gravy, divided
2 thick slices of bread
2-3 tsp mayonnaise
1-1.5 oz cheese (I used cheddar and Jarlsburg, which was what we had leftover from appetizers)
1/8 cup cranberry sauce

In a small bowl, combine the shredded turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, and 1 Tbsp gravy. Mash together. You want this to be wet, almost like a paste. If you have leftover creamed spinach, creamed kale, or green bean casserole, feel free to throw these in at this step. If you do, hold off on adding any gravy until after adding the wet veggies because you may not need it. 

Heat your frying pan over a medium-low flame. Spread mayo on one side of each bread slice. If you haven't started using mayo in place of butter for grilled cheeses, prepare to be converted. When the pan is hot, add the bread slices, mayo side down. Split the other 1 Tbsp of gravy and spread on BOTH slices of the bread. Add cranberry sauce to one slice and place the cheese on top of the fruit. You want a thick layer of grated or very thinly shaved cheese. On the other bread slice, place dollops of the turkey, potato, stuffing, and gravy mixture and spread out. Cover the pan with a lid and let the cheese melt, checking periodically to make sure that the bread isn't burning. When the cheese is melted, carefully place the turkey, potato, stuffing, and gravy coated slice on top of the melted cheese and press down slightly.