Maitake mushroom salad
This warm, simple salad is so special thanks to the maitake mushrooms and the variety of textures and flavors. Made from expensive ingredients, this salad is meant for special occasions (or just the occasion of treating yourself), but I promise it’s worth it!
This salad is based on my best memories from a tiny little restaurant in Brooklyn called Little Dishes that I used to frequent with my husband before it tragically closed. I remember running to this place in the thick snow when someone was having a craving for their Mac and cheese. Their food was so simple, but so thoughtfully prepared that the dishes ended up being much greater than the sum of their humble parts.
Maitake mushrooms, sometimes called Hen of the Woods, are my absolute favorite variety. They’re meaty and slightly herby with a wee bit of forest floor funk. I state from the outset that this is an expensive salad because maitakes definitely don’t come cheap and I wouldn’t substitute any other mushroom variety here. I mean, you CAN, but your salad with end up fine, instead of ethereal.
The original recipe used a local cheese that was somewhere between parmesan and gruyere. Use either in this recipe or any other favorite cheese that falls in the nutty, slightly dry realm.
A couple of notes:
Cooking the mushrooms: I like to leave the mushrooms in slightly large pieces. It will feel awkward to cook them at first because they’re pretty stiff until they heat up somewhat. Once you sear them on one side, the mushrooms will get much floppier and easier to cook.
Cooking the radicchio: I seared half of the bitter lettuce and left the other half raw for a bit of textural difference, but you don’t strictly need to do this step. I left the lettuce in pretty large pieces for the photos, but definitely slice them much thinner for the real salad.
Maitake mushroom salad
2-3 large maitake mushrooms, each cut into about 4 large pieces
1 small head of radicchio, sliced into very thin wedges
1 Tbsp butter
1 Tbsp olive oil
4-5 cups arugula (1 small bag of pre-washed lettuce is perfect)
Shallot vinaigrette (recipe below), to taste
Parmesan or gruyere cheese, to taste
Shallot vinaigrette
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp sherry or red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp minced shallot
1/2 tsp dijon mustard
1 tsp mayonnaise
1 large pinch of salt
Heat the butter in a large skillet over a medium high flame. When the butter has begun to bubble and brown slightly, add the mushrooms and cook, turning every 1-2 minutes, until well browned on all sides and very floppy, about 6-8 minutes. Remove the mushrooms to a plate and sprinkle with salt.
Add the olive oil to the pan and heat until very hot, but not smoking. Sear half of the radicchio on one side and then flip to the other side and sear again. If the pan is hot enough, this should take about 5-6 minutes. Turn off the heat and sprinkle with salt.
Add the mushrooms back to the pan with the radicchio to warm back up, but don’t turn the flame back on.
Add the arugula and the raw radicchio to a large plate or bowl. Add half of the dressing and toss well. Sprinkle with sea salt.
Top with the warm mushrooms and radicchio. Pour on more dressing to taste.
Add large flakes of the nutty, salty cheese on top to taste. Serve immediately.
Miso parmesan chickpeas and kale
This quick side dish or light main is an easy way to add some greens to your meal that are both tasty and satisfying.
The idea for these greens came from a New York Times Cooking recipe for Miso pasta. That simple recipe combines only butter, miso, and parmesan cheese with pasta, pasta water, and a little nori on top. My husband made this dish on a whim and we were all sort of stunned by its deliciousness— even the 6-year-old!
I mean, what’s not to love?? It’s funky, salty, cheesy, a little creamy, and a lot carby. I replaced the pasta with beans and greens, which is just a light nod to health, but if you wanted to add the pasta back in (or garbanzo pasta to double up on the bean-age!) that would also be delicious.
We typically eat this as a side dish with a simple chicken or fish that’s either grilled or roasted while the kale cooks.
Just a quick note about this recipe: I used salted butter because I like things pretty salty. Between the butter, miso, and parmesan, there’s a lot of salt in this dish. While I normally advocate salting as you cook to build layers of flavor, I encourage you to hold off on adding any extra sodium until you’ve finished the dish.
Miso parmesan chickpeas and kale
Time: about 20 minutes, all active
Yield: 4 side servings, 2 main servings
3 Tbsp butter (I use salted, but use whatever you have)
1 can chickpeas, drained and dried
1 bunch kale, stems removed and thinly sliced (about 3 firmly packed cups of you’re using prechopped or frozen)
1 heaping Tbsp white miso paste
3 Tbsp water, plus more as needed
½ cup parmesan cheese, shredded
Squeeze of lemon juice, to taste
Chili pepper flakes, optional
Fried egg, optional
Over medium high heat, melt your butter. This should only take 1-2 minutes and the butter might start bubbling on the sides, which is fine!
Add the chickpeas and cook, shaking the pan frequently, until the beans and the butter start to brown, about 4-5 minutes. If you don’t drain the chickpeas thoroughly, never fear! Your butter won’t get quite as brown and may need an extra minute or two to brown the chickpeas.
Add the kale and stir to coat. Turn the heat down to medium low and let cook for 1-2 minutes while you prep the miso.
Combine the water and miso paste in a small bowl or measuring cup and whisk to combine. Add to the pan and stir well. If the liquid boils off immediately or if there are brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan, use 3-4 more Tbsp of water at a time to deglaze the pan. Repeat if necessary. You should have a little bit of liquid in the bottom of the pan before adding the cheese.
Turn off the heat and add the parmesan. Stir until melted.
Squeeze the lemon and garnish with chili pepper flakes, more cheese, and an egg if desired.
Cacio e pepe cauliflower and chickpeas
So, I have to confess something: I’m not sold on the pretend-cauliflower-is-the-same-as-carbs trend. I’ve had the Trader Joe’s cauliflower gnocchi and it’s good, but it’s not gnocchi. I’ve resisted cauliflower pizza crust because…I just…can’t. I like cauliflower rice, but only with other strong flavors.
However, I do like cauliflower, especially when it’s covered in cheese, garlic, and breadcrumbs.
Cacio e pepe purists may hate this recipe, but hear me out. The best part of cacio e pepe is the creamy sauce that’s achieved by mixing the starchy pasta water with cheese. But when you roast cauliflower, the stalks and larger pieces actually do get a little creamy.
And my kiddo likes things with a crunch more than things that are soft and creamy, so throwing in a little panko is a nice textural counterpoint to the softer cheese and veggies.
Add a drained can of chickpeas and you have an actually filling vegetarian meal or a hearty side.
Cacio e pepe cauliflower and chickpeas
1 large head of cauliflower
1 can chick peas; drained, rinsed, and dried
3 Tbsp olive oil
½ tsp sea salt
5-6 grinds of freshly ground pepper
¾ cup grated Parmesan or Pecorino cheese (3 oz)
2 large cloves garlic
¼ cup panko
½ tsp sea salt
¼ tsp freshly ground pepper
2 Tbsp mayonnaise
Preheat oven to 425.
Drain and dry one can of chickpeas. Set aside.
Remove the leaves from your cauliflower, but leave the central core intact. Chop into 1-inch slices. You’ll probably get between 2 and 4 intact steaks and the rest will fall into florets, which is fine.
Place the cauliflower steaks and chickpeas onto your sheet pan and then fill in with cauliflower florets.
Brush the steaks, florets, and beans with the olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Roast for 15-20 minutes, until the steaks are just fork tender. (You don’t want mushy cauliflower, but this is the majority of the cooking the steaks will do, so use your best judgment about how cooked you like your veggies.)
While the veggies and beans are roasting, pulse the cheese in a food processor until it’s in coarse crumbles (if not using pre-grated). Add the garlic, panko, salt, and pepper and pulse until the garlic is minced and everything is mixed together. Set aside.
Carefully remove the pan from the oven.
Spread a thin layer of mayo over the steaks and any of the larger florets of cauliflower. Top liberally with the cheese, panko, salt, and pepper mixture. Press lightly into the steaks to get the cheese to stick.
Return to the oven and roast for another 10-12 minutes until the cheese is brown and crunchy. Keep an eye out that the cheese doesn’t burn.
Yield: 4-6 side dishes, 2-3 main dishes