Malted chocolate pavlova
Pavlova failures abounded this week. Ugh. Half of these photos are from when I gave up trying to make a meringue that didn't fall and just accepted that I'd wasted, like, 20 eggs making these stupid desserts.
But I'll back up: Pavlova! I love meringues and a pavlova is akin to a large meringue that has a softer, more marshmallow-y center. It's a decadent finish to a holiday dinner, but strangely light, which seems appropriate after ham or whatever other heavy things make up your Easter meal. It's also going to be almost 80 degrees here in NYC on Easter Sunday, so a light dessert might be nice. Good planning on my part.
Pavlovas should be easy: They require very few ingredients and very little active cooking time. But, I've learned the hard way (read: after 4 fallen pavlovas), that the technique can be tricky. I've put some lengthy notes below to explain what I did to achieve pavlova success on my 5th try. Victory in our time.
I've done A LOT of research on pavlova techniques in the past 14 days. Unfortunately, some of the advice is contradictory (why does that always happen?). In 20 years, when I've made 400 pavlovas, I'll update this post with a foolproof method for cooking them. Until then, here's what worked:
1) Cold egg whites are fine. Using cold eggs are not the secret because I also used cold egg whites in one of my fallen meringues. But I used them in my successful one, so don't worry about bringing them to room temperature before you get started.
2) Whip egg whites at a slower speed for a longer amount of time. I whipped the egg whites on a 4 with my stand mixer and had the best results when aerating the eggs a little more slowly. Using a lower speed also makes it easier to ensure that you whip enough, but not too much.
3) Whip the eggs almost to stiff peaks before adding the sugar. I read this advice on a random Australian listserv (I did a DEEP dive into pavlova-land) and it really helped. All of the other recipes I read told me to add the sugar when the eggs were at soft peaks, but that inevitably led to fallen pavlova. I tried to get some good photos of the soft peak stage, but was scared to stop the mixer, lest my 5th attempt fall too. Basically, you'll know you're at soft peaks when the bubbles that started earlier as froth become really really tiny, the eggs' volume increases, and you can see the tracks from the whisk going through the mixture. Once you get here, keep mixing for a few more minutes before adding the sugar.
4) Don't overbeat the eggs. Once you've added the sugar, stop whipping as soon as the egg whites start looking glossy and shiny and check to see if you've achieved stiff peaks.
5) Sift the malt powder, chocolate, and cornstarch over the whipped meringue. I worked pretty hard to ensure that nothing deflated those eggs and the only time it worked was when I actually sifted the dry add-ins at the end. I also folded the ingredients together excruciatingly gently and JUST until things are mixed together enough. I left the batter a little streaky because I really didn't want them to deflate.
But fear not. If you're still reading, then you're already committed to making this and good on you. Regardless of what happens with the texture of your pavlova, it'll taste great. This recipe uses a lot less sugar than most because I find most pavlovas awfully sweet. I also love the flavor of malt. While the pavlova itself isn't overwhelmingly malt-y, it has a mild sweetness and chocolate-y flavor that melds perfectly with some lightly sweetened cream and the malted and chocolate candies on top. If I was doing this again, I would also dust the top with malt powder. But if I make another pavlova, my husband might divorce me.
Malted pavlova
Adapted from Nigella and Martha
6 egg whites
large pinch of salt
1 cup sugar
1 tsp vinegar
1 Tbsp cornstarch
3 Tbsp malt powder
1 Tbsp cocoa powder
Preheat oven to 350 degrees and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
Separate the egg whites and yolks and set the yolks aside. (Be careful! Seriously, no yolks allowed in pavlova.) In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites on medium-low speed ("4" on my stand mixer) until they start to get frothy. Add the salt and continue whipping. Look for soft peaks: (in case you didn't read this above) The bubbles that started forming when the eggs got frothy become really tiny, the eggs’ volume increases, and you can see clear tracks where the whisk cuts through the mixture. Continue whisking past this stage (still on speed 4) for about 3-4 more minutes.
Add the sugar in 2-3 Tbsp increments while continuing to whip. After each sugar addition, let your mixer go for about 1 minute to incorporate the sugar. Once your sugar is mixed in, continue whisking until the eggs look glossy and shiny. Stop the mixer and check that you’re at “stiff peaks.” To check: turn the whisk right side up and see if the egg whites stay in a peak or lop over—they should stay in a peak. Add the vinegar and then sift the cornstarch, malt powder, and cocoa over the eggs. Very gently, fold the ingredients together until JUST mixed.
Mound this mixture onto your parchment and smooth down the top a bit, leaving a slight divot in the center. Put in the oven and immediately reduce heat to 300. Cook for 60-70 minutes and then turn off the heat and let cool completely in the oven with the door closed.
The pavlova can be kept, well covered, for 2-3 days before being decorated with the cream and candy.
Whipped cream
2 cups heavy whipping cream
4 Tbsp sugar
½ Tbsp vanilla extract
Combination of Cadbury chocolate mini eggs and Whoppers malted mini eggs
To assemble: Remove the parchment paper and place the pavlova on your serving dish. Some people like to invert the pavlova and put cream on the underside. I have no preference about this step. Mound the whipped cream on whatever side you like and top with the candy. Serve immediately.
Yield: 8-10 servings
Honey, lemon, and ginger spelt muffins
These muffins are soothing and comforting for sick days and also bright and tangy and full of nutrition for all of the other days. And since they only use one bowl and are ready in about 30 minutes start to finish, they’re an easy make-ahead breakfast or snack that are delicious with a dollop of lemon curd and butter.
I had a really cliched parenting day yesterday. I spent 30+ minutes tearing around our apartment frantically trying to find M's lovey that was NOWHERE. I finally found her (him?) in my camera case. I forgot that M can do zippers, so I threw the bag back into the closet while straightening up not realizing that he had put lovey in there while I photographed these muffins. Guys. I even picked through the garbage. THE GARBAGE. And then had an entire conversation with Ethan about how we can lojack the thing.
Before someone suggests that we get multiple lovies for this exact scenario, be assured, we're way ahead of you. But our smart cookie knows that the replacement lovey is an imposter and is not soothed.
The (thankfully temporary) loss of lovey was especially harrowing because today is M's first sick day in months. I don't mean to brag, but he hardly ever gets sick. I can say that out loud now because I'm not worried about jinxing myself anymore. Of course he got sick the week that all of our classes were cancelled thanks to a mid-winter school break AND it was 65-degrees, so we spent the entire time outside. Go figure.
When I get sick, Ethan makes me his mom's home remedy of chopped fresh ginger and lemons boiled to death in a few cups of water and then combined with honey. I don't know why it's so soothing, but it makes my throat feel better, eases my coughs, and generally feels warm and cozy. M isn't so into this strong tea, but I put the flavors into a muffin that's also tasty and soothing.
Have I talked about spelt flour here before? I really like it as a replacement for white flour in breads and baked goods because it has a very similar taste and texture. However, it has a lot more protein and fiber than the plain old AP variety. You can really replace white flour with spelt flour in most baking recipes with little or no modification. (Disclaimer: I haven't tried EVERY recipe with spelt flour, but everything I've tried has worked well. I would not replace cake flour with spelt flour as I think it would change the texture of the finished product.)
One more note: These muffins really benefit from fresh ginger. I have this ginger grater and it's a really handy tool. I made my last batch with powdered ginger and they weren't the same. They're fine though, so if powdered is your only option, use 1.5-2 tsp depending on how strong a ginger flavor you want.
Honey, lemon, and ginger spelt muffins
Adapted from Smitten Kitchen
1 scant cup of full fat Greek yogurt
¼ cup olive oil
½ cup honey
zest of 1 large lemon (or 1.5 small lemons)
¼ cup lemon juice
2 eggs
1½ tsp baking powder
½ baking soda
2 cups spelt flour
1-1.5 tsp fresh ginger, grated or minced
¼ tsp salt
Preheat the oven to 400. In a large bowl, whisk to combine the yogurt, olive oil, honey, lemon zest, lemon juice, and ginger. Whisk each egg individually into the batter. To the same bowl, add the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt and stir until just combined.
Prep your muffin tins by either spraying or wiping with olive oil or adding cupcake liners. Do this after mixing the batter in order to let your leaveners (baking soda and baking powder) start to work. Fill cupcake tins about 3/4 full. Bake for 12-14 minutes or until a cake tester comes out clean.
Yield: 12 muffins
Strawberry and cherry granola bars
Say hello to the Frankenbar: Part granola bar, part oatmeal cookie, and part Rice Krispie treat.
These beauties are free of gluten, nuts, and can be dairy-free if you swap out the chocolate-covered sunflower seeds with a vegan chocolate. The brown rice syrup takes a little getting used to—for me, it has a slightly funky flavor on its own. But the syrup is far stickier than honey or maple syrup, so it's a better binder, and you don't taste it in final product.
These bars are also completely adaptable based on preferences and allergy concerns. Can't find dried strawberries or cherries? Use other dried fruits. Don't have any nut allergies? Use almonds or peanuts and their respective nut butters instead of the sunflower seeds and seed butter. Can't find chocolate covered sunflower seeds? Swap in the aforementioned vegan chocolate to make the bars dairy-free or use chocolate chunks or M&Ms.
This recipe is also a great way to use up sunflower seed butter if you have some left over. Again, one of those ingredients that can taste kind of funky on its own (unless you make this homemade version which is GREAT), but adds a nice nuttyness when combined with all of the other ingredients.
Strawberry and cherry granola bars
Time: 45 minutes, mostly active
Yield: about 18 large bars
1 1/2 cup quick rolled oats
1 1/2 cup puffed rice cereal (brown or white is fine)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2/3 cup chocolate covered sunflower seeds
2/3 cup dried cherries, roughly chopped
2/3 cup dried strawberries, roughly chopped
1/3 cup freeze-dried cherries
1/3 cup freeze-dried strawberries
6 Tbsp melted coconut oil
1/3 cup + 2 Tbsp sunflower seed butter (1/3 cup works, but the bars are slightly crumbly)
1/3 cup + 2 Tbsp brown rice syrup
Preheat the oven to 350. Line an 8x8 baking pan with parchment and lightly grease. Set aside.
Combine the dry ingredients in a large bowl.
In a smaller bowl, melt the coconut oil. Whisk in the sunflower seed butter and the brown rice syrup. If not coming together, microwave the wet ingredients for 10 seconds at a time and try whisking as the ingredients warm.
Pour the wet ingredients over the dry ones. Using a spatula or your hands (I always use my hands), stir well to combine.
Dump the mixture into the parchment-lined baking pan and pack down.
Bake in the oven for 25 minutes or just until the edges begin to brown.
Let cool completely before serving. The bars stay crunchy for one week in a sealed bag at room temperature, but go ahead and freeze some or all if you won't eat within a week.