Escarole and white beans
Beans and greens get an upgrade with loads of garlic, caramelized onions, lemon, zest, and a glob of butter melted in at the end. They’re luxurious and comforting and can be eaten for any meal.
So, my get-the-kid-into-the-kitchen mission backfired this week. We had some yogurt to use up and a friend who is a million weeks pregnant, so I decided to make her Smitten's lemon yogurt cake. M helped with the measuring and mixing and stirring and we had a lovely time until lunch rolled around and he only wanted to eat cake. Cue the NUCLEAR MELTDOWN. So many tears. Teaching him patience is trying my patience.
But! In my never ending quest to get M to eat green things, I decided to take a stroll down Escarole Lane. And it was successful! (Before the cake crying episode, though. If I had offered this instead of cake, his head might have exploded.)
I think the LOAD of garlic, onions, and lemon (and a dash of crushed red pepper if your kiddo can tolerate a little spice), made a big difference. I usually see greens and beans with either pasta or in a soup (either of which you could easily do with this recipe) but I went for a more straight forward presentation and was surprised at the results. Fry an egg on top and call it lunch or eat it as a side dish with your protein of choice for dinner.
White beans and escarole
Time: About 40 minutes
Yield: 2 1/2 cups or 2-4 side servings
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion
2 large pinches of salt, divided
3-4 LARGE cloves garlic (if your cloves are small or medium, use 6-8)
2 heads escarole, washed and chopped
1/4 cup chicken or vegetable stock
1 can white beans, rinsed and drained
2 Tbsp lemon juice
Pinch of crushed red pepper, optional
1/2 Tbsp butter
Several cracks of fresh black pepper, to taste
Zest of 1/4 of a lemon
Parmesan cheese, optional
Heat the oil over a medium flame. Add the onions and cook until deeply browned, about 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Reduce the heat if the onions seem to be burning rather than browning. Stir in one large pinch of salt.
Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes.
Add the escarole and stock and cook until wilted, about 5 minutes.
Add the white beans, lemon juice, crushed red pepper (if using), and butter and continue cooking until all the liquid has evaporated and the beans are heated through.
Stir in the second large pinch of salt and several cracks of black pepper and taste for seasoning. Adjust according to your preference.
Top with lemon zest and parmesan cheese.
Green matzo ball chicken soup
Guys. It's almost Passover, which means, it's matzo ball season. I could eat matzo ball soup daily, but I always want it to feel like a MEAL and it often…doesn’t. There's usually just some broth and the balls. Occasionally you get a carrot or some celery, but there's not much to it. The consequence is that I take 100 years to order in a deli or a diner. I always want the soup, but what else do you get if you don’t want a bad diner salad, but want something with protein and veggies, but that isn't a full meal because you already have soup? CONUNDRUM. I think it might be the thing my husband hates most about me.
Anyway, I think the key to making a great matzo ball is in the timing: Once the matzo meal, fat, seltzer, eggs, salt, and pepper have been mixed together, this gloop needs to REST. I’ve rested the mixture for anywhere from 1-5 hours and I think the longer the better (without going crazy and leaving it, like, overnight).
I also suggest really beating the eggs well with a whisk or a fork. Make your wrist tired. You want the whites and yolks to be very well integrated to help keep the balls together.
Also, the seltzer is ABSOLUTELY necessary.
And a note about salt: I like my matzo balls salty, so if 3 tsp is too much for you, dial it back a bit.
So! This recipe is a long one and definitely best for a weekend or occasion. But there are many places where one could take shortcuts (use pre-made stock, rotisserie chicken, and pre-chopped kale and this is a much quicker process.) On the upside, this soup can actually pass for lunch or dinner, so if you put the time in, you get a rounded meal that's appealing to young (M) and old (me.) M has finally accepted eating leaves of green and not just in puree form, so he's into this soup.
I pureed my first batch to see how it went and it was delicious, but stringy and needed straining. The stringiness of the chives and kale stalks even made ME whip out the strainer and I avoid extra dishes like the plague.
Green matzo ball soup
For the stock:
6-7 lbs chicken (some combo of bone-in, skin-on chicken parts)
2 celery ribs, roughly chopped
2 large carrots, roughly chopped
1 large onion, roughly chopped
5-6 garlic cloves, smashed
1 bay leaf
Whatever herbs you have/like (I usually toss in a handful of fresh sage and a tsp of dried thyme)
1 Tbsp kosher salt
Lots of pepper
12 cups water (or more; make sure the chicken and veggies are fully submerged in water and replenish if too much evaporates while simmering)
Add all of the ingredients to a large stock pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for about 3 hours.
When stock is done, strain and collect all liquid. You should have anywhere from 9-12 cups (give or take depending on your cooking method and how much water evaporates).
Save the chicken meat, but discard the rest of the aromatics, veggies, and any skin or bones that were floating in the stock.
In separate containers, store the broth and the chicken in the fridge, covered, for at least 6 hours, or until the fat rises to the top and congeals. I usually leave it overnight. When cooled, skim the fat from the top and store in a separate container to use in the matzo balls.
For the matzo balls:
3 large eggs, well-beaten
3 Tbsp schmaltz or olive oil (I use the rendered fat from the chicken stock and top it off with olive oil if necessary)
3 Tbsp seltzer
3 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
3/4 cup matzo meal
Whisk the eggs very well. Combine all wet ingredients, plus salt and pepper, in a bowl and mix well. Add the matzo meal and stir well. If it feels lumpy or hard to stir, use your hands.
Cover and chill for at least 1 hour, but ideally 2-3.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
When chilled, form the dough into 12-16 golfball-sized balls using wet hands and drop each into the boiling water as soon as it’s formed. Reduce heat to low and cook, covered, for 40 minutes.
For the soup:
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 small shallots, minced
1 stalk celery. minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup chives, chopped
3 cups kale, chopped and well packed
Salt and pepper
8-9 cups chicken stock (if not making your own chicken stock, try to find homemade from somewhere else- don’t use the stuff in a box from the store for this)
1 Tbsp
Shredded chicken (about 3 cups or whatever comes off of your cooked chicken from the stock)
Heat the oil in a large stock pot. Add the roughly chopped shallot and celery. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 5 minutes.
Add the garlic, kale, and chives and cook, stirring, about 3 minutes more.
Add the stock and water and bring to a boil. Turn the flame to low and simmer for 20-30 minutes.
Add the chicken and cook for 5 minutes more to reheat. Test for seasoning and add salt and pepper as needed.
Pour soup over the matzo balls and serve.
Yield:
Smoked salmon, goat cheese, and chive eggs
Five ingredients and fifteen minutes are all you need for this easy and flavorful dinner, a fancy breakfast, or a fun brunch.
So, this dish started its life as an omelette, but if you’re anything like me, no matter how hot you get your pan and how much oil you use, certain days omelette’s just hang on tight. And since we’ve pretty much sworn off nonstick pans, scrambled eggs are our destiny.
Anyway, I first made these eggs for Father's Day 2015 and they’ve been in the rotation ever since. They’re delicious and SO FAST. If you want dinner on the table in under 20 minutes, make these. If you want a “special” breakfast that doesn’t take ages, make this. You get it!
These eggs are so basic, but the salmon and chives and cheese make them creamy and salty and herby.
A couple of notes:
I don’t salt the eggs because the salmon is so salty that I don’t often need more.
Don’t overcook these babies. These eggs are best when they’ve just barely stopped jiggling.
I DO cook the salmon a little bit because, strangely, I don’t love the texture of smoked salmon. I love raw salmon and cooked salmon, but that in-between phase isn’t my favorite. Just a little bit of heat makes the texture of the thinly sliced fish a little closer to cooked salmon, so it’s more to my taste. If you like smoked salmon, leave it out during the cooking and then add it on top of the cooked eggs to maintain the original texture.
Smoked salmon, goat cheese, and chive eggs
Time: 15 minutes, all active
Yield: Enough for two adults as a main course, 4 people as a side dish
1 Tbsp olive oil, butter, or fat of choice
6 eggs
3-4 Tbsp milk (whole or 2% both work)
2-3 oz goat cheese
2 Tbsp chopped chives
5 oz wild smoked salmon (or, one small package), torn into smaller pieces or roughly chopped.
Heat the butter or oil over a medium flame.
Crack the eggs into a medium bowl and vigorously whisk with a fork until the whites and yolks are well combined.
Add the milk, goat cheese, and chives and whisk again until the ingredients are reasonably incorporated (the goat cheese will still be in clumps).
When the pan is hot, pour in the egg mixture and add the salmon. Lower the flame to medium low or low.
Move the eggs around with a rubber spatula scraping the cooked layer from the bottom and letting the raw eggs run into the open spots. Repeat until the eggs are soft, but cooked, about 3-4 minutes.