Shortcut chicken soup
This chicken soup uses a few shortcuts like rotisserie chicken and store-bought broth to speed up the process, but gets extra oomph from plenty of aromatics, a little extra cooking oil, and teeny tiny pasta cooked right in the broth. A poached egg on top adds even more richness and depth.
I originally called this “Quick and rich chicken soup,” but it sounded too much like a country band. However, the moniker still applies because this guy is indeed quite rich and quite quick (for a soup that tastes this good, that is!).
I’m not a huge fan of the chicken broth that comes in a box or a can. I mean, it’s fine as a replacement for water when cooking grains and beans, but for soup? It’s a little thin and bland for me. But, I don’t always have homemade stock in the freezer or the wherewithal to make it. (But if I do, this is my recipe!)
To spice and thicken it up, I use any combination of these:
Butter: Adding a little extra cooking fat when you start sautéing your aromatics adds richness to the final product.
Tiny pasta: The teenier the better! Orzo, stelline, ditalini, anilline, or any other pasta that’s about the size of a pencil eraser works perfectly. When cooked in the broth, the starch from the pasta thickens the broth significantly.
Cheese: Adding some grated cheese at the end is one strategy, but tossing in the leftover rind of any hard cheese adds salt, depth, and richness.
Salt: This might sound weird because a lot of canned and boxed broths have A LOT of salt in them, but if you use the unsalted or low salt variety, be sure to add enough salt back in.
Poached egg: When the soup is done, adding a poached egg on top enriches it even more!
In this soup, I used pasta and a poached egg to give it a rich, silky texture. I included a range for the amount of liquid to add depending on how much liquid you like in your soup. Six cups makes the soup very thick, eight cups make it less so.
Shortcut chicken soup
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 small onion, diced
1 medium carrot, peeled and diced (heaping ½ cup)
1 small stalk celery, diced (scant ½ cup)
6 large fresh sage leaves
½ tsp dried thyme
1 bay leaf
1 tsp kosher salt
Black pepper to taste
6-8 cups chicken stock
1 cup tiny pasta
1-2 cups shredded, precooked chicken
Serving sugggestions:
Poached egg, parmesan cheese, more seasonin to taste
Time: About 45 minutes, mostly active
Yield: About 6-8 cups of soup, depending on how much water and chicken you add
Heat the olive oil in a large, deep pot over medium high heat. Add the minced onion, carrot, and celery and cook, stirring frequently, until the veggies begin to brown and the onions are translucent, about 6-8 minutes.
Add the sage and thyme and cook until fragrant, about one minute.
Add the bay leaf, salt, pepper, and chicken stock and mix well. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes.
While the soup simmers, shred the chicken and set aside.
Bring back to a boil and add the pasta. Cook according to package directions until al dente.
Add the shredded chicken and stir.
Quick(ish) Meat Sauce
Meat sauces are usually long and slow affairs, but this version speeds things up with high heat and beef stock to mimic the flavor of a cooked-all-day sauce in a fraction of the time.
I love a great, long-simmered, deeply flavored, unctuous Bolognese more than almost anything. That falling apart meat with a hint of acidic tomatoes all clinging to some wide flat noodles with a sprinkle of salty, nutty parmesan? Swoon.
But realistically, we never have time to make one. Even during these quarantined weekends we need flexibility for when the children inevitably short circuit and need a change of scenery.
It’s hard to achieve that depth of flavor without the long, slow simmer, but I’ve tried! And I think succeeded! However, there’s a reason why I call this a “meat sauce” and not “Bolognese.” It’s not the original. But it is a delicious approximation in about an hour.
A couple of notes:
Use the leanest beef you can find. If you can’t get 90/10 or 85/15, use half of the amount of pork listed or leave it out entirely
This recipe is meant to be made mostly at high temperatures, but you’ll need to keep an eye on the sauce at every step to ensure that the liquids are evaporating fast enough, but that nothing is burning. We want the heat to caramelize and brown everything, but we don’t want anything to burn and turn bitter. You may have to do a significant amount of fiddling with the temperature throughout the cooking to speed things up or slow them down at intervals.
I list a range of amount of the tomato paste. I like it less tomato-y, but my husband likes it with a little more. The largest amount (6 oz) is one small can of tomato paste.
Quick (ish) meat sauce
2 Tbsp olive oil
½ large onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 large stalk celery, finely minced (about ½ cup)
1 small carrot, finely minced (about ½ cup)
5 large garlic cloves, smashed
1 lb ground beef (90/10 if you can find it)
¼ lb ground pork or sausage, casings removed
1 tsp kosher salt
4-6 oz tomato paste (5-6½ tbsp)
¼ cup red wine
2 cups beef broth
Pepper to taste
Time: about 1 hour for the sauce and the pasta, mostly active
Yield: 3-4 cups of sauce, or enough for 1 lb of pasta
Heat a skillet over a medium flame. Add the oil and heat until the oil is shimmering and slips easily around the pan. Add the onion, celery, and carrots, and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the veggies soften and begin to brown.
Add the garlic. Cook until fragrant, 1-2 minutes, being careful not to burn.
Add the meat and turn the heat back up to medium if you turned it down earlier. Stir and chop up the meat with your spatula breaking it into small pieces while cooking until no pink remains, about 5 minutes.
Stop stirring and let the meat cook, undisturbed, until browned on the bottom, about 5 minutes. You should hear it sizzling and bubbling. If not, turn up the flame.
Add the tomato paste and wine and stir well to combine and deglaze the pan. Cook, stirring constantly, until the wine has evaporated, about 2 minutes.
Add 1½ cup of beef broth and cook, stirring often, until it has evaporated, about 8-10 minutes. If the liquid isn’t evaporating fast enough, turn up the flame.
Add the final ½ cup of broth, turn the heat all the way down, and cover. Let simmer on the lowest heat while you cook your pasta.
Bring your water to a boil and cook the pasta according to its package directions. Stir the sauce every few minutes while the pasta cooks.
Combine and serve.
Koginut squash soup
This soup is so creamy, herby, warm, and comforting—everything a bowl of soup should be. I use Koginut, which is a cross between the butternut and kabocha varieties of squash, but use anything you have on hand!
The koginut is my new favorite squash. It has the thick, creamy flesh of a kabocha squash but the mellow, sweet flavor of a butternut. If you can’t find one, have no fear. Basically any winter squash variety would be perfect here and all roast in roughly the same way. I’ve also used 2 extra large sweet potatoes in a pinch and the soup turned out equally delicious.
A note about roasting: One important element of this roasting method is to NOT trim the tops and bottom of the squash. Leaving them whole means that the steam gets trapped in the cavity of the squash so that it roasts and steams at the same time.
Also! In the recipe, you’ll note that I put the milk high up on the ingredients list even though we don’t add it until the end. That’s because, bringing it to room temperature and even microwaving it a bit makes it less likely that the milk solids will separate, which can happen if the cold milk is shocked by the hot soup. You can warm it in a pan on the stove while the soup simmers, but who wants to make another dish or worry about something scalding?
Koginut squash soup
Time: About 90 minutes, less than half of it active
Yield: 10 cups of soup
3 cups roasted squash, about 1 medium winter squash or 2 very large sweet potatoes
½ cup heavy cream or half and half
1 Tbsp olive oil
½ large onion or 2 large shallots, roughly chopped
5 large garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 Tbsp butter
3 stems fresh thyme or ¼ tsp dried
Heaping ¼ tsp cumin
Heaping ¼ tsp paprika
1 tsp sea salt
4-6 cups low sodium chicken stock
2 Tbsp brown sugar (optional)
Heat oven to 425. Halve the squash and scoop out the seeds and stringy flesh inside. Place the squash cut side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet and roast for 30-45 minutes, until the squash is fork tender.
Using a kitchen towel or oven mitt to protect your hands, scoop out the cooked flesh from the inside of the squash and set aside.
Measure out the cream or half-and-half. Let sit at room temperature while you prepare the rest of the soup.
In a large stock pot, heat the olive oil over a medium-low flame and then cook the onion until beginning to brown, about 5-6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute until fragrant.
Add the butter and let melt and bubble slightly.
Add the spices, stir well, and cook for 1 minute until fragrant.
Add the squash and stir well to combine. Add the stock, stir well again, increase the flame to high, and let the liquid come to a boil.
Turn down the flame to low and let simmer for 15 minutes.
Puree the soup.
Add the puree back to the original pot. Test the milk to see if any chill remains. If it feels cool to cold, microwave it for 30 seconds at a time until it feels room temperature or warmer. Add to the soup and stir.
Test for seasoning and adjust as necessary. If desired, add 2 Tbsp of sugar (brown or white) and stir to combine.